Do You Know Your Ape Index? Come to Calculate!

Have you ever heard of the “ape index”? Do you know what it means? Have you calculated yours? Or are you just scratching your head, wondering if this is a monkey business?

There has been a lot of talk about this strange term in many different areas, from sports to anthropology. Some people even say it might be the key to your hidden athletic ability.

In this post, I’ll tell you what the ape index means, help you calculate it, and see if the long arms of famous climbers have given them an upper hand.

What Is the Ape Index?

The ape index might sound like something from a wildlife show, but it is a term used in sports science and human studies.

It shows how long someone’s arm is compared to their height.

The name comes from the fact that apes, like gorillas and chimps, often have longer arms than tall, which is why the index is positive.

In simple terms, you have a positive ape index if your arm span (measured from one fingertip to the other with arms outstretched) is greater than your height.

You have a negative ape index if your arm span is less than your height. If your arm span and height are equal, your ape index is neutral or zero.

A typical ratio is 1. As Vitruvius said, a “well-made man” has an arm span the same length as his height.

How to Calculate Your Ape Index?

The ape index is easy to figure out because all you need are 2 measurements: your height and your arm span. Here is the method you can use to calculate it:

Your arm span- Your height = Your ape index.

To find out how long your arm span is, stand up straight with your body in a “T” shape and your arms at your sides. Your arm width is how far your middle fingertips are from each other.

Getting the measurement right on your own can be hard, so have someone else use a measuring tape.

Don’t forget to use the same number as when you measured your height.

• If the number is positive, your ape index is positive, which means your arm span is longer than your height.
• If the result is 0, you have a neutral ape index, which means your arm span and height are the same.
• If the result is a negative number, you have a negative ape index, which means your arm span is shorter than your height.

The ape index is typically expressed in inches or centimeters, but some prefer to express it as a ratio (arm span/height). For example, if your arm span is 2 inches longer than your height, your ape index could be expressed as +2 inches or a ratio of 1.02 (assuming your height is used as the baseline of 1).

Is It Good to Have a Positive or Negative Ape Index?

Whether a positive or negative ape index is “good” or “bad” largely depends on different situations.

In some sports, having a positive ape index (arm span longer than height) can be very helpful. 

For example, a longer arm span lets a climber reach higher points in rock climbing. 

If a boxer has a longer reach, they may be able to hit their opponent from a better distance. 

Basketball players may also benefit from having a positive ape index because it can help them reach the basket and block shots.

Sometimes, though, it might be better to have a negative ape index, meaning the arm span is shorter than the height. For instance, having a shorter arm span can help in weightlifting because it reduces the distance the weight needs to be lifted.

A positive or negative ape score is not better for health. Some studies show that a high ape index may be linked to health risks, like heart disease. However, these results are still preliminary, and more research is required.

Anthropologists use the ape index to look at how people have changed over time and how different they are. They don’t think of it as good or bad. In the past, people who lived in trees had a higher ape score, which helped them get to higher branches. People today have a lot of different ape scores, which shows how different our pasts and presents are.

Does the Ape Index Matter in Sport Climbing?

Scientists have been interested in the role of the ape index in climbing ability. Some studies say having a positive ape index (arm span longer than height) might help you climb.

A climber with a longer reach might be able to get to holds that other climbers can’t. Sometimes, this can lead to new ways to solve a physical problem. A longer reach could also mean you need to make fewer moves to get to the top, saving energy.

Even though having a positive ape index can help you in some ways, it’s not a must-have for climbing success. Many good climbers have an ape index that is neutral or even negative. Just like Lynn Hill, she has a negative ape index, which means that her height is greater than her arm span.

To climb, you need to be strong, flexible, skilled, mentally tough, and smart. These skills can cancel out or even outweigh the benefits of having a longer reach.

A study in 2011 in the Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research found a small link between arm span relative to height and climbing ability.

In 2016, the International Journal of Performance Analysis in Sport released another study that found no significant link between the ape index and the climbing performance of top boulderers.

The ape index is only one part of the sport climbing puzzle. It’s not a block to success, and it’s not a promise of success either.

Should Climbers Care About the Ape Index?

My advice: Don’t worry about it.

For climbers, the ape index can be a point of interest because it can potentially affect your reach on the wall. You may be able to reach farther holds or make some moves more easily if your ape index is positive, which means your arm span is longer than your height.

A positive ape index can make you feel better about your ability to crush routes, but a negative ape index shouldn’t stop climbers from trying. Most importantly, it shouldn’t stop people who want to try climbing!

For example, Alexander Megos, one of the best climbers, has an ape index of 1. Not at all. It doesn’t stop him from on-sighting 9a (5.14d) routes!

Climbing involves many aspects. It needs good technique, strength, flexibility, problem-solving skills, and mental toughness. Often, these factors matter more than physical measurements.

Famous Climbers’ Ape Indices

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Final Words

Knowing your ape index can be fun and helpful as a climber, but it shouldn’t be a big deal or something that affects how well you’ll do in the sport.

Focusing on getting better at different routes and problems, building your strength and endurance, and growing your skills are much more important.

Dedication and passion for the sport will get you much farther than any physical trait.